2000 October 24 : Tuesday

CHOTT EL GHARSA & OUNG JEMEL

Throughout the course of my travels, I learned to expect the unexpected. For this safari, I had expected Kamel would take me out in one of his Land Cruisers. However, it turned out I was in the driver's seat of my rented Saxo with Kamel in the passenger seat and two French women in the back. It also turned out that the start of the road to the sets was just on the outskirts of Tozeur. I had passed it by many times because it looked more like a driveway than the route to a Hollywood blockbuster.

Ongh Djemel is Tunisian for "The Camel's Neck." A rock formation on the edge of the Chott El Gharsa bears this name and this was our initial destination. In 1995, the crew of THE ENGLISH PATIENT "built" the sandy road we were now traveling on. Christened the Saul Zantz Imperial Highway after that film's producer, it is now firmly on the itinerary of the many Land Cruiser safari companies in the area. After about 20 miles on the bumpy, sandy road, we arrived at Ongh Djemel.

Like the Chott El D'Jerid, the Chott El Gharsa is as flat as a billiard table. However, it is much more slender and one can see right across to the other side. If you have seen THE ENGLISH PATIENT, the plane crash was filmed here. So too, was the base camp. Ongh Djemel can be seen in the background of many of the shots. We paused for a few minutes to take photos before continuing on.

As I drove, Kamel mentioned something about a shortcut. When he motioned for me to "make a left" I did so. And when he told me to "speed up," I did that as well. Unfortunately, I didn't go fast enough. The Saxo ground to a halt and died in the sand just a few meters shy of the "Imperial Highway." Immediately, we dug the powdery sand from the wheels and tried to start the car. It died again. We tried again - pushing this time as well. It died. Try as we might, we were unable to free it from the sand.

About this time, Kamel noticed a man observing our plight from the crest of a distant sand dune. He whistled and waved in the man's direction. The four of us watched as the robed figure drew closer. Halfway to us, he paused and picked up something before continuing towards us. Upon arrival, the Berber presented a section of wire mesh. Using this, the Citroen's floor mats, and everyone's push power, we tried again to free the car. Just as a Subaru Outback happened effortlessly by, the rental car overcame the sand's grip and lurched forward back onto the beaten path. Everyone piled in and Kamel motioned for me to follow the Subaru around the large dune so that we could drop the Berber off.

Coming around the dune I suddenly realized where we were. In front of me were many small geologic sandstone formations. The Berber had a small souvenir/refreshment stand near them. I instantly recognized the formations from THE PHANTOM MENACE. We had just driven across the very spot where Queen Amidala's ship landed in the film. Just ahead was the site where Qui-Gon first locked lightsabers with Darth Maul. And just beyond that, the "small set."

The "small set" was the first of two sets built in the summer of 1997 for the filming of Episode I. This particular set represented Anakin's home. In part, it replicated a section of Ksar Hadada. Several walls had been omitted so that Anakin's pod racer could be "parked." The scene where he starts it up for the first time was filmed here. As I walked around and through the set, I noticed that although it was built of hard plaster over a sturdy framework, it was not weathering well. Graffiti was scrawled upon it, walls were on the brink of collapse, and a large dune had already started to reclaim the structure to the desert. I expected the "large set" existed in a similar state.

When we rounded the next dune I was astonished by what I saw. The large "Mos Espa" set, had been completely refurbished. Walls had been repainted, strange gizmos attached to them, and (most astonishing of all!) "moisture vaporators" stood in the streets. A prominent sign read, "NO ENTRY - TUNISIAN MILITARY ZONE." Knowing that the Tunisian Army had provided security during the previous months' filming, we disregarded the warning and proceeded to explore the town.

As in Matmata, PVC pipe, metal heating ducts, and pool filters had been used to create the small bits of machinery that decorated the buildings. Several buildings still had cloth awnings attached. Kamel, pointed out that a few of the shops had makeshift locks, floors, and sand screens. These had been used as dressing rooms. He also pointed out the temporary comfort stations that had been built just outside the set complete with western style toilet paper. As dusk approached, we headed back to his friend's refreshment stand where Berber tea awaited us. In addition to seeing the film sets, I had long dreamed of having tea in the Sahara...

Eventually, I hired a guide to take me out to THE PHANTOM MENACE sets on the Chott El Gharsa.

01) NEAR OUNG JEMEL | Stuck. The "Saul Zantz Imperial Highway" is about fifty feet in front of the car. You can just see it stretching off toward the horizon.

02) NEAR OUNG JEMEL | We placed the floor mats in front for extra traction. Hertz would be so proud.

03) NEAR OUNG JEMEL | Help is coming.

04) NEAR OUNG JEMEL | The sign points to the cafe (just off the left edge of the photo). Look closely at the right edge to see the tippy top of the remains of the "small set."

05) NEAR OUNG JEMEL | Sandstone formations. These are visible in THE ENGLISH PATIENT (Best Picture Oscar - 1996) and THE PHANTOM MENACE.

06) "MOS ESPA" | I was shocked to see the vaporators were still in place. I'd return a few days latter to find the pile of scrap behind them had been moved in back of the buildings.

07) "MOS ESPA" | It's not apparrent, but these photos were taken in the middle of a slight sandstorm.

08) "MOS ESPA" | Set dressing. The pipes are painted heating ducts. The doors are painted plywood. the doo-dads on the walls are made up of pool filters, hose, and the odd piece of electronic scrap.

09) "MOS ESPA" | Even the awnings were still in place.

10) "MOS ESPA" | All in all, a very cool place!

11) "MOS ESPA" | Me, next to some vaporators.