Any first time visitor expecting to find a third world country is in for a surprise, for this former French colony boasts a well ordered economy, large areas of fertile land and a year-long thriving tourist trade. Unfortunately this is the down side for the low budget backpacker, Tunisia is not cheap, with a standard of living only slightly less then that of the UK. The exchange rate is roughly 70p to one dinar. Prices increase greatly if you intend spending any time in the tourist traps of the Cap Bon Peninsula, a short stretch of beach between Hammamet and Nabeul, but the beach toys (windsurfs, paragliding, boat hire etc) are among the cheapest in the Med. Expect to find the area packed during the peak season of July and August. Cheap accommodation is a shrinking commodity in this part of the country and almost impossible to find during the summer, but fortunately Nabeul has one of the best camp sites in Tunisia and at only three dinar per person per night is good value.

The capital, Tunis, is a pleasant surprise (when compared to other cities in the Middle East) clean, orderly and relaxed with a strong French influence and a mix of colonial architecture and, modern, imaginative skyscrapers. The main street is a wide tree-lined boulevard with a liberal sprinkling of street cafes and shops. The Medina was founded in the 7th century and is the social heart of the traditional Arab city with its mosques, hammams (public bathhouses) and cafes where the men sit during the hot afternoon hours smoking from chichas (water pipes) and playing cards, the cafes provide the chicha free, charging only for the tobacco. At one point, before the arrival of the French, the Medina was the commercial centre of the city.

Today its narrow streets are filled with tacky souvenir shops that cater for the non-stop stream of tourists flooding in each day. A word of warning, street crime is on the increase, from pickpockets to violent gang muggings. In the crowded narrow streets of the Medina, keep valuables and wads of cash safe and out of sight. There are no official tour guides working in the Medina so refuse the services of any one claiming to work for the tourist office of Tunisia. There are an abundance of cheap hotels in Tunis, most in or around the Medina, at the very bottom end of the scale, expect to pay three dinar per night for a very basic shared room without a bath or shower. Prices graduate with each added luxury (single room, shower etc).

In contrast to most Arab countries, the drivers of Tunisia are safe and sane and the roads are of a generally high standard. Hiring a car and driving yourself is a great way to get around, but it’s expensive, expect to pay around 25 dinar a day in rental charges for a small car. Fortunately, there are several cheap transport alternatives. The bus service runs just about anywhere and is fast, comfortable and air conditioned. From the main terminal in Tunis you can reach any part of the country. The train service is small but modern and efficient, offering three classes, 2nd, 1st and Comfort. It’s more expensive than the bus and only comfort class can guarantee a comfortable, long-distance journey. A better alternative to both the bus and train are the long-distance taxis called louages —they take five passengers and will only leave when full, but this never takes long. The fare, when split five ways, can work out cheaper then the bus on some journeys, and they are surprisingly comfortable. You can find the taxi station in the centre of most towns, look out for old white station wagons with a distinctive red stripe and a extra seat in the back.

Carthage: For most visitors to Tunisia, Carthage is first on their itinerary, but unfortunately this one time capital of the Roman Empire in North Africa is a disappointment. Very little remains of the ancient city and the modern day district of Carthage is a sleepy suburb that is home for the affluent Tunisians.

Another place popular with visitors not far from Tunis is the sugar cube village of Sidi Bou Said with its picturesque, white-washed houses trimmed with the traditional light blue doors and windows. The colours symbolise white for purity and blue for the country’s close working connection with the Mediterranean, and can be found on almost every house in Tunisia.

If you’re planning to spend any time in southern Tunisia, winter or early spring is the only time to go. During the summer months the Sahara desert is one of the hottest places on earth which makes any kind of movement during the hours of day light an exhausting, energy-sapping effort. The areas’ main natural attraction is the great lunar landscape of the Chott el Jerid, a massive salt lake that covers more than 500sq km. A road runs right across the middle on a two metre high causeway, buses run a regular service between Kebili and Tozeur and to the credit to the local entrepreneurs, there are several roadside cafes and souvenir stalls along the way.

The busy town of Tozeur right on the edge of the Chott is the largest in the area and has developed into a major tourist centre, with a host of cheap accommodation and a very good campsite, the Camping Beaux Reves (06-451 242). It is just past the tourist office in the direction of the Dar Charait and cost three diners per person. A few places of interest in and around Tozeur, the mountain oases north of the town offers some spectacular views in the country. The old quarter of Ouled el Hadef is worth a visit to spend some time wandering around the narrow streets.

David Coomber